Sunday, May 1, 2016

Blessed is the Holy Trinity



The Culinary Holy Trinity is a Base for Many Dishes
The holy trinity in cooking is a combination of 3 aromatic ingredients, whether it’s vegetables, herbs or spices that are gently sautéed together to provide a flavor base to build upon.  The fundamental essence in many dishes begins with these key ingredients.  In Italian cooking, it is sometimes referred to as battuto and includes onions, carrots and celery in a 2:1:1 ratio.  In France, this is called mirepoix.
The battuto in southern Italy is typically comprised of tomato, garlic and basil.  Chopped, raw ingredients make up the battuto, a derivative of battere, which means “to strike” and describes the use of a chef’s knife chopping on a cutting board.  While it is best to hand chop the vegetables, the most effective tool is a food processor, used on the pulse setting.
Three ingredients that represent the base of various cuisines, each ingredient is chopped very fine and sautéed in oil or butter to release their flavor.  When experiencing with different cuisines, it is important to know their unique trinities:

French:                 onions, carrots, celery
Italian:                  tomatoes, garlic, basil
Greek:                  lemon juice, olive oil, oregano
Indian:                  garlic, ginger, onion
Korean:                garlic, ginseng, kimchi
Spanish:               garlic, onion, tomato
Tai:                        lime, lemongrass, ginger
West African:      garlic, chili peppers, shallots
Chinese:              scallions, ginger, garlic
Japanese:            dashi, mirin, soy sauce
Cajun:                  celery, bell pepper, onion
Cuban:                 garlic, bell pepper, onion

I was thinking about this as I was making a pot of Bolognese sauce over the weekend.  If you had walked into my kitchen, you would have thought you were in a restaurant in Florence, Italy.  And it all began with the battuto.


Classic Bolognese Sauce

1/2 cup chopped yellow onion
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons butter, divided
1 stalk celery, chopped
2 large carrot, chopped
2.5  lbs. mix of ground beef, veal and pork
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup red wine
1/2 cup whole milk
pinch of ground nutmeg
2 cups canned Italian whole plum tomatoes, chopped, with their juice
1 lb pasta (traditionally tagliatelle, but fettuccine and spaghetti work too)
In a Dutch oven, or large heavy bottomed pot, heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until translucent. Add the celery and carrot and sauté for an additional 2 minutes.

Add the ground meats, using a fork or spatula to crumble it as you stir. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook meat just until it is no longer pink.

Add the wine and increase heat to medium-high. Let the wine simmer until it has evaporated completely. 

Add the milk and a pinch of nutmeg. Reduce heat to medium and let the milk simmer until it has evaporated completely. 

Add the tomatoes and stir until thoroughly mixed. When the tomatoes begin to bubble, reduce heat to the lowest simmer and cook uncovered for at least 3 hours, but optimally 5 hours. Stir occasionally during the cooking process. If you keep it on the lowest possible simmer, you shouldn’t need to add any more liquid. If, however, it starts to stick, add a few tablespoons of water, but make sure no water is left at the end of the cooking time. Taste and adjust salt if necessary. 

Serve over cooked pasta, tossed with a teaspoon or two of butter. Top generously with freshly grated Parmesan.

 

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